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22 imagesIf you look at a map of Cyprus, there is a line that cuts across the island like a scar. This is the buffer zone, a United Nations-controlled no-man’s land, also called the ‘Green Line’. It is a constant reminder that the country remains physically and symbolically divided. The zone is a product of Cyprus’ turbulent history. When the island became independent from Britain in 1960, tension simmered between Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities, boiling over into political disputes and violence in 1963. Soon the first peacekeeping troops were sent in and the capital was effectively partitioned. The situation escalated in 1974 when the Cyprus National Guard, who favoured union with Greece, staged a coup and Turkey responded with military action. The island was left split in two along the ceasefire line – and it remains so today. The buffer zone is some 180 km (110 miles) long, and is controlled by United Nations peacekeepers. According to this U.N. force, the Green Line is almost seven and a half kilometers across at its widest point, and takes up about three percent of the island. The buffer zone is most visible in Nicosia, where it is common to see streets blocked off by concrete walls, barrels and barbed wire. Outside of built-up areas the Green Line seems more symbolic. It is monitored by checkpoints and watchtowers, but is not marked by a great wall or fence. Occasionally roads will be blocked off and abandoned towns dot the route. There are checkpoints allowing movement between the north and south of the island if you show your passport and both Greek and Turkish Cypriots are able to cross. Many of the older generation still bear strong grudges and refuse to cross the divide. The buffer zone in Old Nicosia is a surreal oasis of calm. Overgrown houses and shops stand slowly crumbling along the winding route and there is hardly a sound to be heard. A common description of the buffer zone is that it is “frozen in time.” However, to me it was not so much a forgotten city as a testimony to conflict. Many of the houses bear the scars of war: bullet holes, sandbag fortifications and firing positions hint at the conflict that took place. Many of the shop signs still remain and some buildings give the impression that the owners will be back in five minutes. In a former cafe, bottles, pots and pans seem hardly touched. Some of the most famous residents in the Green Line are imported Toyotas stored in an underground garage. They were brought to the island from Japan but fighting broke out before they were sold. Dusty and rusting, some still have their import stickers and just 32 miles on the clock. Similarly, further out of the city, the old Nicosia International Airport looks more like a scene from a post-apocalyptic horror film than a travel terminal. A Cyprus Airways passenger plane still stands outside, never to fly again.
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16 imagesAn Audio Visual presentation of this project can be found at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdyyw9fe3KI The Atacama desert in Northen Chile is the driest place in the world. In many places rainfall has never been recorded and there is no possibility of life. However, people are trying to reverse the trend of desertification by harvesting coastal fog in large nets. Fog and moisture in the air passes through the net and condenses before travelling through pipes into tanks where it is stored. The fog water is pure for drinking and can be used for agriculture. The Universidad Catolica has a scientific research centre at Alto Patache. The results have shown that life is waiting to be found in the desert. Fog water has been used to transform a once arid patches of desert into a gardens. Accidental water spillage from fog water has shown that parts of the desert contain seeds and with a little water will natural grow a wide variety of plant life. Currently a collective in the village of Chanaral use the water for Aloe Vera farming. Water is a vital resource in the Atacama where it is scarce and in high demand from mining industies. Currently water is piped to towns from hundreds of miles away in the Andes or driven by water trucks. Fog collection offers a clean cheap and sustainable water resource for the future. However, in Northern Chile it is in danger unless there is further investment from the goverment and authorities.
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18 imagesThe Arch to Arc is billed as the hardest triathlon in the world. It is comprised of a 87 mile run from Marble Arch in London to Dover, a swim across the Channel to Calais in France, finishing with a 180 mile bike ride to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. 49-year-old charity worker, and recovering alcoholic, Paul Parrish hoped to be the oldest man to complete the event. Parrish felt that training for the event has filled the gaps in his life that drinking left. “Alcoholism is grim … you can’t get much lower,” he said, adding that he looked forwards to celebrating completing the event with a cup of tea. He realizes the feat might seem extraordinary, but believes that “you need to make a leap of faith with yourself and give things a go.” I watched Paul through some of his training and followed him as he took part in the race. The sheer size of the task was impressive, but it was only by traveling with him through his entire journey did I fully understand the hardships involved. After the long run, which took place over 24 hours, we arrived in Dover where we found that there was only a 50/50 chance he would be allowed to make his swim. Luckily the weather gods were smiling but it turned out that no channel swim is straightforward. This was the part that Paul feared most. With the cycle or run you can stop or rest, but during a swim you have to move constantly, or the tide will take you back. “During a long swim I don’t want to know anything about time. It’s just me and the water, when tiredness comes I feel like I’m going to pieces,” said Parrish. Waves, fatigue, jellyfish, extreme cold all combine to make the swim difficult. The swimmer has to pass through shipping lanes – the busiest in the world – but it is the psychological challenge that Parrish saw as his biggest hurdle, “the biggest fear is not your body – but that your head will give up.” Even eating was a challenge. A small boat carried food and a support crew who passed drinks to Parrish in a small milk bottles on a rope. The cycle from Calais to Paris was a long, slow journey. I traveled with a support vehicle, everyone was tired and irritable, and just keeping going was difficult, but it was worse for Parrish, “You feel every niggle, get worried about injury and aches and pains move around the body.” The journey through Paris at rush hour was dangerous. Parrish had been cycling for 20 hours and I was worried he’d be hit by a passing bus. In the end he reached the finish line – there was a small celebration but no great victory lap. Parrish had a brief sleep then turned back, pleased it was all over and probably wondering what his next challenge would be. Parrish took 21 hours 55 mins for his run, 17 hours 25 min for his swim and 20 hours 44 min for his cycle. Including breaks between stages his total time completing the Arch to Arc was 84 hours 44 min. Parrish is the oldest person to complete the race, and the 7th fastest.
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